Correct planting technique begins with the loading of the plant at the nursery or garden center. Roots, stems and foliage of plant material should be protected during transport. Plant tops should be shielded from winds. Never pick up a plant by the trunk. Trees bark is particularly vulnerable to damage in the spring if growth has started. B&B trees are very susceptible to this type injury because of the weight of the root-ball. Plants should be lifted from underneath the root ball with the appropriate equipment. Container-grown plants should be handled by the container and never by the tops of the plant. If plants must be held or stored on the landscape site, it is best to place them in a location protected from the wind and sun. Do not let the roots freeze or dry out during this time. If the delay in planting is more than a few days, "heel in" B&B material by covering the roots with bark or some other mulch. Supplemental irrigation is critical for the nursery stock during the growing season.
A current trend in landscape design is to plant trees and shrubs in large beds. When this design concept is followed, preparation of the entire plant bed area and not just individual holes is recommended. In many urban areas, soils are compacted and sometimes poorly drained. In these situations a good root zone should be created by amending the beds with a sandy-loam topsoil and aerifying the soil as deeply as possible. The addition of organic matter provides little or no advantage to the planting hole in good soils. Backfill should, in most cases, be the soil removed from the planting hole: "what comes out...goes back in". This is especially important for B&B material and bare-root planting stock. An exception to this would be where entire beds can be amended to create an homogeneous root-zone. The organic matter, e.g. compost or composted pine bark, is uniformly mixed with the soil. This makes room for future growth and increases aeration to the backfill. In very poorly drained soils, drain tile under the beds is necessary.
If a French drain or tile drain is installed, it should drain downhill at a 2 percent minimum slope with an outlet on the downhill side. When setting plants, they should be planted high. If the poor drainage condition cannot be corrected, any tree or shrub planted should be a species that tolerates wet conditions. If the soil is sandy and moisture is difficult to hold, a heavier topsoil can be added. Organic matter in this situation will be valuable as it improves the water-holding capacity of the sandy soil.
After planting, a 3-to 4-inch layer of organic mulch should be added to the soil surface around the plant. This will conserve moisture, discourage weeds, and moderate soil temperatures.
Planting Depth
The most important consideration in planting trees and shrubs is the planting depth. It is better to plant in a raised manner so the roots will not drown or suffocate; planting too deeply is a major cause of plant failure. Holes should be two to three times wider than the root ball and the same depth as the root ball. The root ball should be located on solid soil and not on loose backfill. Wire baskets do not need to be completely removed from large field grown trees. The top half of the basket should be cut and folded down. The burlap should be folded back, and the nylon strings should be removed. The plastic liners or synthetic burlap-type materials also should be removed.
For the most efficient use of water, an earthen dam should be constructed 4 to 6 inches high around the drip-zone area of the plant after planting. Water will be able to collect in this saucer and move slowly down into the planting hole. Runoff will be minimized.
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