Stephen J. Toth, Jr. and Thomas A. Melton, editors
Volume 17, Number 8, June 7, 2002

Caution!
The information and recommendations in this newsletter are applicable to North Carolina and may not apply in other areas.


Residences, Structures and Communities

Residences, Structures and Communities


From: Michael G. Waldvogel, Extension Entomologist


Springtails Continue to Spring Up Indoors

The flow of telephone calls and e-mails about springtails has been fairly steady over the last two weeks. As many of you know, this problem has been going on for several months, but appears to have increased in intensity with the continued hot dry weather. If you are not familiar with these soil inhabiting critters, you are not alone because they are just not one of our typical problems. They are extremely small and basically a brown color. If you look at them with a magnifying lens or microscope, you will see that they have a long forked structure tucked underneath their abdomen. This structure (called a furculum) serves as a springboard to propel the insects into the air (hence, the name springtail).

Most of the reports I have received have the springtails occurring in bathrooms and kitchens, particularly around the tubs and sinks. This is a no-brainer here - these are your sources of moisture that attract the insects. However, it gives the appearance that the insects are coming out of the drains. It is also possible that the springtails are coming up from the crawlspace, but I'm not convinced that this is a major passageway for them, but it is one that should be checked on chronic problems.

Based on an unofficial census, the problems appear to be worse around new construction (residential and commercial), but older established areas are not immune. With new construction, there is a possibility that the insects are being transported in on topsoil or mulch. This does not mean that the practices should stop, but some important measures need to be considered regarding control. When I have spoken with some of the pest control companies, I have received the usual mix of this works and this hasn't worked. The problem is that I hear the same chemicals mentioned in both categories.

In my opinion, the primary reason for ineffective control is spray volume (or lack thereof). With few exceptions, such as properties with irrigation systems, the soils and mulches are practically devoid of moisture. Chemicals are getting tied up in the surface soil, thatch, and mulch, and we are simply not getting the chemical to penetrate sufficiently. If homeowners are complaining that treatments by pest control companies are not working, it is likely because the technicians are doing their typical perimeter treatments (i.e., typical volume of spray). I saw this same problem arise during some tests I conducted for millipede control last year. Regardless of what chemical is used, the key to trying to stop the springtails is volume, volume, volume. If the companies are not putting out at least 10 gallons per 1000 square feet, then they are not likely to get control.

If homeowners want to try to doing the treatment themselves, they definitely need to use one of those garden hose sprayers in order to get the necessary volume. If they have a thick layer of mulch around the house, it needs to be pulled back at least 3 feet so the soil can be treated. Most treatment areas consist of about 3 to 5 feet around the house, plus about 2 feet of the foundation wall as well. Any of the common outdoor insecticides that you find at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. can be used. The most common brands are Bayer, Ortho and Spectracide.

As for granular insecticides, I am not recommending them right now unless you know you are going to have rainfall or the area can be irrigated after applying the chemical. Granular insecticides are not magic, they do not dissolve. Granular insecticides need moisture in the soil in order to work. Some areas of the state are under water restrictions, so that is another reason to steer away from granular insecticides. Of course, the water restrictions may also prevent people from applying the liquids as needed and if people try to use a 2 to 3 gallon pump spray to lightly treat the foundation, it will not work.

As for indoors, that is somewhat of a losing battle if you try a conventional baseboard sprays. If the problem is severe and someone wants to try spraying, the best approach is probably a crack and crevice treatment along the baseboard using one of products that has one of those straw-like injector tips (similar to a can of WD-40). Most of the retail stores have one of several brands.

Periodic rainfall may help dampen the activity (literally and figuratively), but I would not count on it bringing springtail invasions to a halt. As long as we have stretches of hot, dry weather, we will likely see the springtails. Of course, millipede season is not too far away either.



The information presented in this newsletter is for educational purposes only and represents the opinions of the respective authors. Any reference to trade names is made with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service is implied. Use pesticides safely. Read and follow all label directions.

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North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service

Last modified on June 10, 2002 by Stephen J. Toth, Jr.

This Web version is a cooperative effort between the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service and the Center for Integrated Pest Management
North Carolina State University College of Agriculture and Life Sciences North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service Department of Entomology Department of Plant Pathology